For the past few years Campfire has alternated between a couple of routes for our Intermediate Bikepacking trips. We are fortunate to be able to offer one of the more accessible beginner routes thanks to the 100+ miles of paved multi-user path that runs the lengths of our two major river beds (better known as dry washes) and can take you all the way out to some great camping. However, the jump from a ride to Catalina State Park to the rocky trails and deep sandy washes of Southern Arizona can be a leap for those new to off-road, weighted, bikepacking. We’ve heard plenty of feedback that the Tombstone Hustle has been a bit of a wild ride for our intermediate riders.
We started looking nearby for new options and leaned on the work of some of our local route publishers who we are fortunate enough to have in Tucson putting together comprehensive guides to our dirt roads and trails, saving a lot of guess-work and making riding these routes a little less intimidating for first timers.
We decided to give Molly Sugar’s Ironwood Overnighter a go. I’ve been following Molly’s routes on RideWithGPS for a while, since back when she was putting together routes and group rides in the Pacific Northwest. Many of her routes, such as the Frog Lake Loop in Oregon, offer shorter rides that can be done as an overnight trip, with mileage that feels accessible for inviting a bunch of friends along for a good time. I could easily imagine myself riding with the photographed groups on her info pages and having a blast. The Ironwood Loop felt like it checked the boxes for the right mileage, not too much overall elevation gain, and a unique visit to one of my favorite parts of the Tucson area desert.
Molly’s route passing through Ironwood National Monument, is host to the largest stand of Ironwood trees in North America. Ironwoods grow well in the Sonoran desert, thriving in well drained soil and providing great shade coverage. You’re lucky if you catch their short blooming period in late spring, when their small lavender, pink, and white flowers soften these otherwise spiky trees. November was not the season for blooms, but the rich biodiversity of the area is still a spectacle in any season.
By 9am the parking lot of our meet up spot had filled up with all 17 of our punctual participants. As per usual, we all set to arranging our gear, strolling around for casual introductions and comparing how much water each rider was bringing. Even before we began riding many of us began shedding layers as we quickly transitioned from the chilly morning to shirt heat within a mere 30 minutes.
In true camp style, we circled up for intros and route info. Many familiar faces were present, new friends and old, participants from former trips, the brothers who had come all the way from New Mexico for a second time to join us, and some recent “graduates” from our beginner trip. For a few this was actually their first off road bike trip, for some only their second. A small handful were familiar with this route but riding it for the first time loaded. We rolled out in mass with a sense of great camaraderie, stopping at turns to make sure everyone stuck on route.
Within the first couple miles our first (and only!) mechanical occurred when Hunny’s pedal fell off. Benji to the rescue, a fellow participant, as well as a seasoned mechanic and ride leader themselves. Benji reverse-chased the damaged threads with the pedal and was able to get it re-secured. Shockingly after that early incident, there was not even a flat to follow for the remainder of the trip, though it was a full on “shakedown” for testing our gear. We could have done some excellent product testing as our water bottles went flying and our gear straps required tightening.
We quickly discovered that the true challenge of this ride was not in the mileage nor the elevation, but the terrain. The word “chunky” might be an understatement. This group navigated these challenges on an incredible array of rigs. From the drop-bar gravel bike pulling a trailer (I think the rider would agree this would not be recommended on this route. I spent miles watching him search for the best line for all 4 wheels with little luck), to Summer’s modified 26” rigid mountain bike with handlebar streamers, a pair of Salsa Fargos (my bike!), a bunch of hardtails, Wendy’s fat bike that rolled right over everything in her way, and even one full suspension rig. Riders carried their gear in soft-mount bags, on racks and in baskets. We all felt immense envy during our lunch break when Colleen and Matt whipped out their ultralight camp chairs.
At one point on the first day Summer and I started off a few moments behind the group. We verified a tricky turn on our map and continued down a particularly gorgeous rocky descent before hitting a smooth dirt trail. I noticed there were absolutely no tire tracks. We verified that we were on course and climbed up a steep saddle. From the top no one was in sight but fortunately I had service. I texted Burger, who had been leading the group and we started swapping reference points to where we each were on the route, only to discover they were actually all behind us! Apparently they had missed the turn and taken a slightly alternate route. At that moment small dots of colorful shirts appeared on the ridge across from us and we got to cheer the group on as they dropped through the drainage and began the steep climb (“push a bike”) to meet us on the saddle.
By mid-afternoon we all made it to the midpoint of our ride with dispersed camping options near the sandy washes below Cocoraque Butte, a geologically and culturally intriguing historical site. The butte appears as a giant mound of boulders rising from the desert floor covered in hundreds of well-preserved petroglyphs, some dating back 2,000 years from the Hohokam people.
At the start of the approach trail, nestled under a giant Ironwood tree, our very own trail angel, Mando, had left us a cache of water and a cooler full of sodas, beers, and cookies. What a treat following the brain rattling ride and the persistent heat of an Arizona fall day.
We set up camp and a smaller group of us set out for the short hike to Cocoraque Butte where we cautiously moved amongst the rocks, discussing the images we found, taking guesses at what they depicted, appreciating all the people who have passed through this place before us or called this area home, and being absolutely dazzled by the views. After an early sunset, we gathered around a campfire for a few more cookies, before heading off to the warmth of our beds.
The following morning a couple campers rolled out at their own start time, followed by the group rollout. Now seasoned on the terrain we all made it back to the start by mid-afternoon with only a few minor slips, scratches, and spills on those loose descents.
For those newer to bikepacking and rough gravel road this trip proved to be a big step up from pavement riding. But everyone handled the challenge like champs and now have a fully informed sense of what their bikes and gear can really handle. Everyone headed home a more confident version of their bike-riding self. Thank you to all the participants who shared in the good times and supported each other through this route.
For more rides out in this area you can also check out the 35 Ironwood Forest National Monument Gravel Loop by another great local route designer, Sarah Swallow.