Our first bikepacking trip of the year is always an exciting one and feels long overdue. For most, it’s the first time in a while since we’ve dusted off the bags, the tent, and all the odds and ends of an overnighter. Winter in the Southwest is a lovely time of year for day rides, but nightly temps are usually low enough to keep most of us from heading out until things start to warm up. A bit like any of the other reptiles in the desert. Like most places around the country, Spring weather is variable to say the least, but this year we were fortunate to have near-perfect conditions for a rip down the Black Canyon Trail.
The BCT is easily accessed a few hours north of Tucson and runs for 75 miles due south on primarily desert singletrack, terminating just outside of Phoenix. It’s an IMBA Epic Ride, and for as close as it to Tucson, surprisingly, only one person in our crew had pedaled the trail from end to end. Luckily, that person was Kate.
What’s the trail like from here to there? Ask Kate. Is there a good flat spot to camp over there? Ask Kate. Is the milkshake pie in Rock Springs worth it? Ask Kate. Ready to go? Who’s leading out? Kate! And thus, our group became The Whole Kate and Ka-Dude-le.
Thanks to some very efficient carpool planning from Toby, our group of 12 arrived at the northern terminus of the route in just a couple of cars loaded down with bikes. Some light rain had passed through the area in the night, and the sky was still looking fairly ominous as we packed up. A quick group photo and the usual wheelie check from Toby, and we were off!
For about a half mile. The night’s light rain turned out to be just enough to instantly muddy up our tires, jamming chainstays and forks with mud and rocks. Pedaling slightly off-trail worked for a few turns, and then the grass turned it all into an adobe brick. After much stopping, starting, and scraping, the angle of the trail or the composition of the dirt changed just enough to dry things out, and we were truly on our way.
Dark clouds were on our tail for most of the first day. By the time we hit a lunch stop at the Big Bug Trailhead on Highway 69, we had just enough time to eat and pack up before a light drizzle began. Constricted turns with ledges on one side and cactus hugs on the other made for some engaging riding for the remainder of the day as we followed the canyon down. The trail continued to climb and descend countless washes and eventually gained a higher plateau with stunning views of the backlit Bradshaw Mountains. The sun peaked out. Dappled clouds cast the perfect desert light. It was sublime.
Evening approached, and we hit the 30-mile mark looking for a place to camp. We naturally turned to Kate, and she knew just the spot a few miles down closer to Bumble Bee Ranch. The sun had set behind the mountains, and we rolled into camp with enough light to set up the tents and gather firewood. Little pots of dinner were assembled, and Jake thoughtfully packed out a freeze-dried cake for Toby’s soon-to-be birthday. 21, can you believe it?
Saturday morning was cold, and the sun did its job nicely once it hit us. Tents and rain flies hung in the trees as we made coffee, breakfast, and a plan for the day. At only 15 miles down the trail, Rock Springs Cafe became the goal with the promise of pie, milkshakes, and the aforementioned blended combination of the two.
For such a dry winter, it was refreshing to cross a few creeks on the Agua Fria River throughout the morning. Those 15 miles went by slower than most of us anticipated, and having put off a lunch stop in favor of the cafe, we arrived ready to feast. We’d only been on the trail for a little over 24 hours, but a proper meal and a chair already sounded like a treat. A large party was ahead of us, causing a wait time that we didn’t want to bother with, so we collectively opted for the quicker options of pie milkshakes and gas station burritos. Nate had a pickle in a bag.
We double-backed the way we’d come into town, crossed the Agua Fria again, and made our way up the stoutest climb of the trip so far. At the top, we were rewarded with views of Wild Burro Mesa, and fittingly, even spotted a few on our rollercoaster descent to our camp for the evening. A driftwood fire of mesquite kept us up for a while, and before bed, a few folks opted for a fire-warmed rock (wrapped in a shirt/bandana) to warm their sleeping bags for the night. Highly recommended on your next chilly overnighter!
After some initial climbs in the morning, day three left us with only a dozen miles ’till the end and relatively easy pedaling. We re-grouped after the little climbs, snacked the snacks, all while Kate pulled us along through what felt like one firing range after another.
We arrived at the Emery Henderson Trailhead around lunchtime, and who else was there but Tim to help shuttle drivers back to the start. Tim’s helped us out on previous trips, and it’s always good to see him. Thanks, Tim!
Those who weren’t shuttling cars crossed the highway to enjoy the culinary delights of the North Phoenix Outlet Mall. An older gentleman saw our bikepile and chatted us up with all kinds of questions. His balance wasn’t the same as it used to be, and he was utterly amazed at the trip. The contrast to coming off trail is always interesting, and other people’s interest is always a good reminder of how lucky we are to have the means and the time to enjoy our public lands.
The people make the trip, and we had an awesome crew join us on the Black Canyon Trail. Thanks so much to everyone who came out! Our next overnighter has sold out already, but keep your eyes peeled for other upcoming events here.